I have mixed feelings about this amp. I have bought 3 of these... I am only using 2 in my setup. I have them running 4 12" subs, each sub has a 3000 watt RMS, dual voice coil. Each sub is in series 2 ohms each coil, so at 4 ohms with the voice coils, then a second sub is in parallel giving it 2 ohms, those 2 subs go on 1 amp. These are competition subs, they hit HARD. I did cheap out on the amp sadly, but these amps do hit pretty good, I am not getting 3000 watts at least I don't think, most I am getting at 2 ohms with this amp is 1000-1500. I had to get a high output alternator with these because even going 75 mph my headlights were dimming really bad. Also needed 2 8 farad capacitors.So I was driving and one of the amps starts smoking, you could smell it... OK crap, didn't order it from Amazon, ordered it from VMInnovations on Amazon or whatever it is... Hard to get a clear reply even though it was less than 30 days, so I won't buy from them again. But this review is not about the seller its about the product. So I get another one from Amazon as I want all 4 subs blasting when I drive. Get it in 2 days, install it, and life continues... Then the other one did the same thing, had the same smell. Crap ok, so being a electronics guy...I opened the first amp, and found 4 100V 220MF capacitors that had puffed tops, ok thats the smell, the funny thing is I noticed the smell happening one at a time on the third amp. Then finally the other day it went out. So, these 4 caps either blew because they are cheap garbage or, just under rated on the voltage. Keep in mind when amplifying your voltage goes up significantly, and when it peaks it might go above 100V. Meh So I went on ebay found a 200V 220MF as they weren't on Amazon. replaced them in all 3 broken amps. They now work fine, power up, I just re-installed 2 of the amps tonight, and ran them for about 30 minutes, solid, as a matter a fact... They seem louder (I doubt maybe just lack of bass for last 2 weeks). I will keep posted on if they blow too. These caps are rated 100Volts more. These subs I have are power hungry, though I am not dropping them below 2 ohms on the amp.I am not even peaking the amp, I was still in the burn in, still loud but slowly increasing volume. So if you have these amps and have issues simply replace the 4 capacitors as shown in the attached picture. I circled the capacitors... Also keep in mind they are polarized, negative terminal on the capacitor is inside. Only time will tell, if this doesn't work I am just going to dish out the extra cash and get some competition amps. Make sure you do not change the value of 220. Also I recommend going above 100Volts, if you go below they will blow for sure. But you can match this value or go above, keep in mind too much above all 4 caps may not fit. The 200V ones I bought do fit, however slightly off. I only recommend this to someone that actually knows how to solder.So good amp yes, you probably won't get the 3000 Watts you are expecting to get at 1 ohm, but I can't say to be honest. The caps will blow if you are using good subs, they didn't blow before I changed the subs from the boss 3000Watt subs, which didn't hit that hard. Good luckADDITION: So I connected my Fluke meter to measure the current this thing takes, I am getting about 60 amps peak. So not bad... however... 2 of the amps did just fail, one started smoking again other was getting hot and in protect, also blew the inline fuse. See the other picture attached. As you can see the burned components, and transisotrs are fried. Do not use this amp on competition subs. Subs that demand power, it will destroy the amp. Both amps are repairable to an extent of time and troubleshooting however i'd rather not waste time on them. This amp had most transistors blown, and the resistors next to them with the diodes.The other was doing something strange, I checked all components in line, and could only find one bad transistor which I replaced. Otherwise when I connect to my desk amp, its pilling more than 5 amps, goes into protect, but even then all the transistors heat up. Every component in line to them is fine. I know its a failing component that only gets messed up when it actually has current being inducted through it. Otherwise it will be fun to find it. This issue is also intermittent, sometimes it would not do it at all, the amp should pull about 1.5 amps when first powered on, however most the time it just goes into protect. So yea I might play with it a bit, but I am going to go with Orion or Power Acoustk, I learned, don't cheap out if you already spent the money on everything else. I have 3 of these which basically will end up in the trash, one of which is working, the other 2, well one of them I might be able to fix, but I don't want to waste my time. So just keep in mind, if you're using Boss speakers, or something that isn't sucking the life out of your amp, this amp hits pretty hard for what it is. But can't seem to handle the 4 ohm load they are connected too lol. As I said POWER HUNGRY SUBS. I had them connected to the Boss 3200w subs, they worked fine, nothing exploding, smoking, however didn't hit like the subs I have in now.Pushes my subs just fine and they sound good as well even shakes my truck pretty good when I feel like jamming hard. Make sure to set your gain properly and lpf to match your subs.So I've had this amp since the beginning of 2021 and recently the system hasn't been putting out any sound amp has power its not in protective mode umm ya im not sure what's wrong I've had subs in my vehicle's since 2016 hooked up more audio equipment than I can remember but never had a problem like this subs are brand new got them a few months agoIf you are reading this review, first thing to note is this is NOT a 4000 watt amp. I recently purchased this amp and ran it through the paces on my Amp Dyno and also checked it out in detail. Here's what I found.Amp itself has a really cool heatsink, looks much nicer than most amps costing much more. It is aluminum and seems to have great fit and finish. It has RCA inputs and outputs and includes a bass remote and cable. Also includes extra fuses and mounting hardware...and even a Boss sticker for your car!I've been curious about the actual power output of this amp for a while. Logic tells us an amplifier with (3) 40A fuses is not going to deliver 4000 watts of output. In a perfect world, with 15 volts of input and 100% efficiency, that's only 1800 watts. The world is not perfect, there is no 100% efficient amplifiers and most people can't provide 15 volts of continuous input. That said, let's see the true measurements captured by my SMD/D'Amore Engineering AD-1 Amp Dyno (all RMS figures at 40Hz):4 ohms certified (to 1% THD) - 433 watts at 14.25 volts2 ohms certified (to 1% THD) - 710 watts at 14.04 volts1 ohm certified (to 1% THD) - 908 watts at 13.84 volts1 ohm uncertified (to clipping) - 1175 watts at 13.47 volts1 ohm dynamic (subwoofer simulation) - 1425 watts at 13.79 voltsYou can see the full video review on YouTube at my channel BigDWiz. You can also search for Boss AR4000D Amp Dyno Test and find the video to see more about this amp.Overall, I had very low expectations for this amp, but was pleased on many accounts. Build quality/design are very nice, but the bloated "MAX" power ratings are something I wish manufacturers would stop using. The power this amp puts out for the price makes it a great bargain for those just getting started in aftermarket car audio or those who want some thump without investing a lot of money. I can't comment about long term reliability and I need to investigate the "6yr platinum online dealer warranty" as mentioned by Amazon. If this is indeed true, how can you go wrong?Pushed a high power 15 inch for 2 weeks before one day i turned the bass knob up n it cut out, fuses blew changed the fuses power light came on but no sound came outWouldn’t buy this againThis amp is awesome for the money. I saw a video on this amp on a dyno and it was impressive, however the 4000 watts max rating is not realistic. Regardless of that it still puts out over 700 watts RMS at 2 ohms, which is still pretty good for the cost. It works very well with the 12" 1400 watt max(500 rms) dvc Clarion sub (wired in 2 ohms) I'm using with it.Running 4000watts max off these 2 mafkas, have them wired to 1.34 ohms, barely turned up a quarter on amp and they just slam, no problems yet, I’ll try keep an update on it as the months go on, you just gotta do your studying on your wiring job and what works best they maybe cheap but can compete with pro amps when set up properlyReally good product for the price, I would recommend these amps to anyone looking for good quality, good solid power, and great performance.